"These build journal entries are part of a Special Series on the S85 V3 long tube headers by InfinityDesign.

This entry covers the installation of the V3 headers, and the various tricks to avoid knuckle busting events."
- Matt

A reminder on design changes.

The most recent V3 design update was implemented to improve the jig's accuracy and precision in order to make installation easier while retaining the signature sound and highest performing header system on the market. 

The V3 also eliminated springs on the merge collectors in favour of a slip-on fit. They are sealed at the collector using high temp silicone to allow heat expansion.

As of June 2022, all V3 headers order are now shipped with bolts and nuts with holes on the primaries and merge collector to secure and seal them together. 

The Minimum Requirements.

If you don't have access to have a lift and will attempt this install. You're a masochist. 

If you don't take the front subframe off and don't have a list. You should see a shrink. 

If you succeed still, a DIY award is what you deserve.

Using the method showcased below, we knocked out the header install in less than 6 hours. InfinityDesign thinks that's a record.

You were thinking you'd receive these assembled like a work of a art eh? No. To optimize on shipping fees, and make installation easier, these headers are delivered in pieces. 

Take the front subframe off. 

This is where it starts, and it will make your whole life a lot easier. My install was performed during a rod bearing service which requires it anyways.  

The V10s are packaged tightly and often present many "while you're in there". While the headers aren't exactly maintenance, matching the bearing service with this install is the move of a financially sound V10 owner. 

Subframe off really gives you immediate, somewhat easy access to the head studs and bolts as well. 

Removing the OEM headers.

The OEM headers were an exercise in engineering process visibly optimized for first packaging these giant primary catalytic converters and to optimize performance as a secondary objective. 

Although a one piece design, they come out rather easily. Be mindful of not messing up the 02 sensors, they get expensive. 

The heat shields also need to come off as some trimming will be required (no pics, my bad!). 

There's a method to the madness, this is where the puzzle starts. First off, first the primaries. 

Once they are fitted, start tightening the head bolts on the studs. Some are easily accessible with power tools. A few will require extensions and hand ratcheting. This is where you're a complete maso if you're not using a lift. 

Follow the stickers. 

Each of the primaries are carefully marked with a numbered stickers. The stickers also match the numbered merge collectors. This will be important once fitting the collectors.

Yes, please remove the stickers once you're done (and are sure you are).

Next, you want to test fit the collectors. Remember the stickers? Align them. Get ready, you'll be fiddling. 

This is the stage at which you'll be swearing a few times as you need to loosen up some head bolts to realign the primaries. 

Fitting the merge collectors (for good). 

Using hi-temp silicone sealant, aka Gasket Maker, apply a generous, copious amount of it to the inner walls of the merge collector. Seal the primaries tight - tighter than you think. 

A good rule of thumb is the silicone should drip out of the collectors by the primaries once you fit them. We didn't pay careful attention here, and we paid for it in spades a few weeks later. 

 

Hint: we didn't put in enough. 

 

The bandaid.

Here's the good news: the merge collectors are easily accessible without having to remove anything. We couldn't complete remove them to re-apply sealant. 

We chatted with Sal and instead tack welded 2x small stripes of metal to the collectors and primaries to hold them together. It worked for us. 

You can see the tack welds on the primaries that were grinded down to remove the headers at a later date.  

Notes on heat shields.

The front head shields will need to be slightly trimmed in order to clear the headers. The heat shields must be fitted.

The S85 V10 generates massive amounts of heat and is packaged tightly. You never know what could go wrong, and you don't want to find out. 

I was able to photograph the trimmed section of the front heat shield during the S85-EVO development. 

Other notes. 

1. Fit all the 02 sensors and bungs correctly.
   Don't thread them. They are $$$. Plug them in too :) 
2. Make sure your head bolts are torqued properly.
   You don't want to drop the subframe again. 
3. Check the steering column fitment. 
   The V3s were specifically designed to clear it. If it doesn't something is wrong in your install. 
4. Tack weld the flange to the collector outlet to fit with the section 1 exhaust. 
   This isn't required, but is good practice. Infinity provides the flange. 

Step back and enjoy. Take another break before fitting the subframe again. Optional engine start for the laughs :) I'm not liable for any melted underbody panels. 

Next step: get it tuned and clips. 

Salman at InfinityDesign developed a Stage 3 tune specifically optimized for the headers.

My body is ready for a mad top end.